Fiber Geekery With Pamir 2012- Black Rose

I have been incredibly blessed to host a 2012 Racing Stripe Pamir dyed by Turquoise Fields. (Sadly, Turquoise Fields is no longer offering custom dye jobs.) I thought for sure I would never get my hands on a Pamir!  While Mr. P was with me I decided (with the help of another weaver) to really study the weave structure.  I’m sure I am not the only babywearer who enjoys a bit of fiber geekery.  We broke out a textile pick glass and took some insane macros.

Here’s one of the infamous racing stripes:

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Picks per inch/Inch (PPI or p.p.i.) is the number of weft threads per inch of woven fabric. A pick is a single weft thread, hence the term. In general, the higher the picks per inch, the finer the fabric is.

Ends per inch (EPI or e.p.i.) is the number of warp threads per inch of woven fabric.  In general, the higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric is.

This Pamir is around 36 PPI and 120 EPI.  It is warp faced dominant and very fine (I’m talking around 30/2).  The weft is around 20/2 or 16/2 double ply (I think).  The racing stripes are created by using thicker weft fiber than the general weft.  Some say that  the stripe pattern  impacts the way the wrap wears – thick stripes go under the bum for extra support.  Aesthetically, I am drawn to the racing stripes as I need a bit of flair.

It is woven in a dense plain weave.  It is light in hand but extremely sturdy.  With the fiber so fine it is truly a wonder how uniformly it is woven- it is almost unfathomable that it was done by hand let alone on an ancient 100 year old counter balance loom.  How do you do it Maria? You must have amazing rhythm when it comes to throwing the shuttle.

I feel the density of the weave makes this very resistant to pulls.  Some say Pamir is a “beater” wrap or workhorse.  I about fainted when I first heard that, as I typically think of a beater/workhorse as a cheap easy care wrap that I do not mind getting dirty – not a $1,000-$3,000 natty wrap.  Many rave that the undyed fibers used in the natty form have amazing wrap qualities that can hold the sloppiest of wrap jobs.  And many lovers of Pamir even claim their natty/undyed wraps (natty as in natural, not Natibaby) are the true workhorses and they treat their dyed Ps with more care.  For example, a dear friend in the wrap community participated in a color run, where they throw powder made from cornstarch, baking soda, and FD and C dye in her natty P, and he came out of the wash unscathed.

Unbelievable, right?  Here’s proof!

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She says this, “They are all woven natty. They are released via auction a couple times a year, and each year is woven a bit differently.

Pamir is very light and thin in hand, but has some of the most amazing wrapping qualities.

My favorite years feel like that ace bandage, hugging wrap that support from newborn to toddler.

They are the only wrap that I can nurse a 40-lb toddler in a FWCC and walk around at an arts fest without being uncomfortable.”

I also hear he can beat any parking lot dust he meets.

Still not convinced?  “Thin in hand” “Ace bandagey” “Folds small” “Extremely supportive” “Fuss free” “Effortless and comfortable””Light” “Perfect amount of stretch” “The going to sleep wrap”

But what does high silk and low silk mean?  For this, I turned to the owner of Black Rose, as her Pamir stash is dreamy.  “The high silks peeped there heads back in 2012 if my memory serves me right. They are 60% bourette silk and 40% egyptian cotton and low has 8%. The silk adds a bit of grippiness and through the years the GSMs ranged ever so slightly changing the WQs a bit. This year the Spring 2016 auction only had 8% silks and one high silk and they are being reported as being the spongiest of all the years so it seems they’ve been getting thicker since the first release of silks.”

Black Rose is 24.5 inches stih (soft tape in hand) in width.

It features lovely long tapers.  The taper depth is 20 inches with a 60 degree angle.  Being a fluffy mom, I appreciate a good taper as I can tie with the tippy tails on a shorter wrap.  But how do you measure the depth of angle of a taper?  Some use a Vernier bevel protractor.  Since I did not have $300 to drop on one, I turned to Sleeping Baby Productions for a good explanation.  “”Depth of taper” refers to the difference between the long and short sides of the wrap, on one end of the wrap. The sling length is calculated from the center of the taper, so with deeply-tapered wraps, a medium (75″) sling could have a short edge that’s 63″ long and a long edge that’s 87″ long. Please keep this in mind if you’re using a wrap with very deep tapers, as it’s best for the taper *not* to end up in the rings. In the image below, you can see how the remaining wrap piece is cut. So if you have a 470cm wrap and I cut it to make a size small sling (using 206cm, measured from the center of the taper), the remaining shorty will be less than 264cm because of the taper depth. The taper depths of various major wrap brands are listed below.  For reference, Ellaroos are straight across with fringe and Easycares are straight across, for a 0″ taper; BBSlens and Natibaby wraps have a 4-5″ taper; Oscha tends to be between 4-6″; Hoppediz are about 5″; Didymos are between 7-10″ depending on the weave; Girasols and Dolcinos are generally 8″; Storchenweige, Pavo, and Lenny Lamb wraps are 10″; Kokadis are 16-18″; Ellevills are upwards of 24″.

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Ever wonder why the hem on the Pamir remains natty?  Why, it’s because polyester thread is used.  Polyester is strong and will not shrink.  However, dye that works on cotton and other natural fibers will not work on polyester.

Wondering how to get your hands on one?  A great starting place is the Facebook group, For the love of Mr. P.  It is a closed group, but if you are friends with a member they can add you.  Also, follow Vatanai on Facebook, as they will post when the next batch of auctions are on their Facebook page.  You have to keep your eyes peeled as their last post in February just said “Hello to all, amazing unicorn is coming again…”

Well, I must admit I do not want to send this on and would love for Black Rose to be mine. Now, I cannot wait to try other years as well as the high and low silks.  Feel free to send yours my way and I will love and geek out like no other.

 

Care to follow me down the Rabbit Hole?

It has been pretty epic around here with the arrival of some very fancy guests.  First, the epic Mr. P (Pamir) visited-geekery post coming soon.  Now, I get to jump down the Rabbit Hole into the world of MAD HATTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Talk about bucket list of wraps.

A million thank you’s to Aly- who is letting me host her 5m HOL (hearts of love weave) rose pink fine EC (Egyptian cotton) piece of Rabbit Hole (cleverly named after the group’s auction bidding alias).  Stay tuned for a full review, lots of spam, and some geekery!

How did I get so lucky?  I put out another ISO post!  See they really do work!!!

And I might be meeting up with a wrap sister to compare the hemp weft…if the stars align.

 

(Pictures were shared with permission from Tina- The Queen Hatter and Aly- the amazing, generous mama)

Now, come on USPS!!!!  Bring me my unicorn.

Review of Steve- Woven by Enrica Handwoven

 

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Meet Steve.  He is a handsome fellow who is luxuriously soft.  You’ll want to cuddle with Steve even when not wrapping, he’s that snugly.  But not snugly as in warm, he is cool to the touch and oh so breathable.  Woven with 50% cotton and 50% TENCEL®.  The more I wrap with TENCEL® the deeper down the rabbit hole I fall.  It is just so soft, so strong, so shiny, so drapey….  It easy care too!

Steve was woven in February 2016 in the United States.  He was named in a naming contest on the chatter page.   He enjoys baths in cold water (machine safe) and feel free to tumble dry on normal.  So, when an opportunity arose on the Enrica Chatter Page to apply to host one of Rita’s wraps I jumped at the chance!

I have followed her work since she wove for Oolaloom.  She wove many of my favorites such as Floyd, Maple and Oak (which was featured in my post on my imaginary stash shot), Free Spirit, Treasure, and Faye.  Check out her portfolio!  She is a self taught weaver since 1994.  She is a member of Handweavers’ Guild of America and Complex Weavers.  If you know me, then you know complex weaves make me swoon.

Enrica has the cutest logo!  An adorable snail with a rainbow shell- also named Steve.  It is featured as the middle markers.  The rails/selvages are raw and unhemmed, which is my preference.  The tails are blunt.  I did not notice any weaver’s knots or loose ends from weft changes.  Another piece had a cosmetic treadling error that was disclosed.  I appreciate weavers who are up front and disclose any cosmetic flaws.  Yes!  Steve has a few sisters out there so keep your eyes peeled on the swaps and chatter page.

Labeling:

Selvage spam:

Steve is 3.9 meters long and 71 cm wide.  He was thin enough for my three month old yet strong enough to wear my two year old with happy shoulders.  Steve was available to purchase via draw on the chatter page.  The admins Krystal and Bev are some awesome wrappers and they work hard and provide fun contests for us.  Make sure to join in on the fun.  And keep your eye on Krystal as she is now weaving!

Flat shots:

I love Steve’s complex network twill.  The TENCEL®  in the weft really does have a nice shine.

Currently, Rita does not offer customs.  Yes, it’s fun to enter draws to win customs but I appreciate letting an artist weave what their creative spirit desires.  I  would absolutely love an Enrica for my stash and will continue to follow her work.

The photos by Rita and Krystal were shared with permission.

Selfie time!

My First Mr. P

A shroud of mystery fills the room. The silence of the room is deafening. 

My heart races, resonating throughout my entire body. 

Is this the wrap that will change everything? 

Finally, like star crossed lovers our paths almost never crossed. (serious post office drama) 

But today is the day…. My first Mr! 

Suddenly it’s hard to breathe.

My hands tremble with anticipation.










Time stands still…

Pamir!!!!!

More to come!

Another DISO is coming my way to stay! Chicibeanz Handwoven- Colorfall!

When I think of Chicibeanz I think of mini rainbow rails as a signature trait.  The first piece that truly got my attention was Alicorn Magic, Echo Elisbeth’s 2015 competition piece.  Shortly after Alicorn Magic was off the loom, Colorfall was on and I was equally smitten. I was feverishly hearting pics on Instagram and liking them on Facebook.  Sadly, I was late to the game and all pieces were spoken for.  I even wrote Echo just to make sure.  So, I headed over to the ISO folder in the chatter group to put out a plea.  I proceeded about my daily life, liking every colorfall pic that was posted and praying someone would temp trade me.  Yesterday, that plea was answered!  My very own piece of colorfall!  I have to share some pics (permission has been granted) prior to her arrival.

Lesson learned- always put out an ISO/DISO, you never know!

Wenweave #wenweavecustomforchristy

I have been an admirer of Wendy Clark’s weaving for some time now.  Recently, I was blessed to host not one but two Wenweave wraps.  The first was a gloriously long (5.5meters) tri-blend of cotton, silk and wool.   Over dyed mercerized cotton warp (hello shine) and hand painted merino wool/silk weft (hello soft) equals heaven in wrap formation.  It was one of Wenweaves final pieces of 2015.

First thing I noticed was the length.  I love size 7 and 8 wraps.  I had tails for days.  Then I was over come by how soft it was.  I just adore silk/merino blends.  It makes you want to snuggle up with it and caress your cheek with the luxurious fiber.  If you fear wool- get over it.  I once steered clear of wool and now I would like an entire stash of merino or superwash.  The care is really not that difficult, especially if you join a group like wool woven wrap lovers to get advice.  You know when people say it’s like wrapping with a cloud?  That’s merino/silk!  Are you afraid of wool being too hot?  Well, this wrap was surprisingly light and airy!  Wool actually breathes and manages moisture better than other fibers.  Sounds counter intuitive but it’s true.

One can’t ignore the  vibrant color of this beauty.  To overdye, you basically dye over an existing color.  The green glows and is the predominant color, but when you look closely there are so many colors woven throughout.  The hand painted weft make the wrap appear like a painting.

It was woven in a crackle design, I image on an 8-shaft loom.

The biggest thing that sets these beauties apart, is the texture.  Wendy mixes thin and thicker pieces of fibers within the warp and wefts.  I am yet to experience any other wrap with such a unique texture.  Not only is it visually appealing and creates a wrap that is more like a work of art than fabric.  Tactile senses rejoice.  The texture also creates a unique wrap qualities along with grip.  It’s actually quite forgiving of the sloppiest of wrap jobs but still creates tight passes.

The second piece I hosted was Calm Before The Storm.  It was 4.2 meters with a cotton warp and  TENCEL®weft.    Another green beauty!  Again, mixing the thick and thin fibers randomly throughout the wrap creating the one of a kind texture that I covet.  TENCEL® is know for it’s shine and strength.  It can be heavy in hand but very lightweight to wrap with.  It is also drapey, mold-able and soft.  Usually little breaking in required.  People worry about TENCEL® being slippery or thread shifing and that is not due to the fiber but the weave and sett.  TENCEL® is one of my absolute favorites.

Join Wenwave Wrappers and perhaps you can also host a Wenweave!  I’m always looking to host.  You never know, your wrap might be the next on my blog.  Hopefully soon, my friend will let me host her Lollipop Guild.

Soon, Wendy’s admin Ashley Zing (who Wendy recently taught how to weave-and she picked it up incredibly fast) will be weaving along side of Wendy so double the amount of Wenweaves!

So, without further ado- I announce my campaign #wenweavcustomforchristy

I MUST get my own one of these days.  I pray I make it to IBC (International Babywearing Conference) this year to meet Wendy and get a chance to score of theses HSA exclusive wraps.  Unlikely, but I can dream.

Prepare for selfies!

 

Review- Sandy Fisher Handwoven Spring Baby Season 2015

I first fell in love with Sandy Fisher’s work when she posted a beautiful pastel double weave.  Check it out on her Facebook!
Name/Design/Description: Spring Baby Season 2015.  OOAK.  Hand dyed using Dharma Fiber Reactive Dyes: Dancing with Raisins, Alpine Blue, and Palomino Gold.  Woven October 2014 for Spring 2015.
Material/fiber/yarn type (if known):  100% 8/2 Cotton, hand dyed.

Structure (plain weave/twill/etc):  Plaited Twill

Grams per square meter: Size/Length and Width:  168/M2, size 6 (but wrapped like a long 7/short 8-which I looove), 27″ wide
Pros: You get a one of a kind piece.  The random hand dying technique used in the warp and the weft, create an ever shifting color palate which looks different in every carry creating a unique look each time you wrap.  The wrap had some diagonal stretch but not enough that creates sag or tension/digginess on your shoulders.  It was very sturdy and withheld a two year old for a 30 minute walk with ease.  (captured on a wovenwrapfan Periscope video)  Nice tight passes!!!  My toddler was not budging a bit.  It was also suitable for my two month old.  I also loved that it wrapped long.  I am of the longer the better train of thought.  If you are looking for a legacy wrap, this would be ideal as she uses seasonal colors from Pantone for your baby’s birth season.  The packaging was out of this world!  Lovely box, wrapped in tissue,with a handwritten card, and a prepaid shipping label.  Another HUGE Pro is there is currently noooo wait list for customs!  Get ready for your own hand dyed wrap!
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Middle Marker: Leather embossed with an SW.

Tails: Blunt ends
Salvedge:  Raw (how I prefer them) and they looked great!IMG_3706 (1)
Care:  Machine washable using the gentle cycle/cold water.  Spin cycle safe.  Lie flat to try to avoid shrinkage.  Iron on warm.
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Cons: Nada.  If I had to say something, I like when weavers include some of the weft fibers for repairs and overall fiber geekery.  It is a handwoven that needs some breaking in, but truly that is a pro for some and con for others!  If you are looking for the newest fad fiber i.e., peppermint, seasilk, rose, etc. that may not be an option as it is not listed on her site- but contact her to be sure as she may be able to order it.  But a heads up, most of these fab fibers are a form of rayon with a touch of rose, seaweed, or peppermint and inherently rayon is a weak fiber.
How does it wrap?–best type of carries,description of wrapping qualities, etc: I am a lover of fwcc and this rocked a fwcc.  Passes stayed put.  It was a toddler “prison” that withheld even the wiggliest of tots.  It also performed nicely in a ring finish in a scc.  No need to keep tightening at all.
What wrap would you compare it to?—either machine woven or handwoven: Similar wrap qualities to Ethos Tamara Angel Cake.  Visually- dye techniques similar to the infamous Farideh.
Weaving Irregularities:  None noted-nubs, slubs, skips,  etc.  I would say this is a dense weave not prone to pulls or shifting.  Burling/mending nicely completed as no noticed weavers knots or weft changes.
If you bought directly from the maker, how was your experience?–custom design process, overall customer service, communication with the weaver, sister wraps, etc:  I was lucky enough to be selected to review this wrap.  During the testing process I communicated regularly with the weaver and admin- always same day responses.  This wrap retails for $450- which for the length and hand dyed technique is a bargain!  There is currently NO wait list for customs.

Here’s the info on ordering direct from her Facebook Group:

Each season there are three warps using a combination of three of those Pantone colors. A picture of each warp will be taken before the weaving; each warp is long enough for 4 to 5 wraps. Each wrap is a unique one of a kind piece by changing the weft color.
Prices:
All wraps are 67-70 cm (27”) wide
8/2 and 10/2 warp twist cotton:
Size 2 – 2.7 metres/106 inches – $270.00
Size 3 – 3.1 metres/122 inches -$315.00
Size 4 – 3.6 metres/142 inches -$360.00
Size 5 – 4.2 metres/165 inches- $405.00
Size 6 – 4.6 metres/181 inches- $450.00
Size 7 – 5.2 metres/205 inches- $540.00
Size 8 – 5.6 metres/220 inches – $585.00
22/2 cottolin: 60%cotton, 40% linen – Contact me for prices
28/2 Linen – Contact me for prices
Wool or Alpaca – Contact me for prices
Custom Finish is included in the wrap price:
Straight across hem finish
Straight across end with fringe (fringe is included in total length of wrap)
A tapered end (½ taper of each tail is counted in the length)
Custom Wraps:
Should you prefer your one of a kind piece (custom wrap made with the seasonal colors), we can arrange to create that as well at an additional cost. I enjoy weaving a different size, weight of yarn, or color combination of the seasons palette with your requests. I require a designer fee before I start on any custom piece. This will be determined due to size and materials used. This custom fee is added to the set price of wrap length and will be agreed upon before weaving begins. Custom wraps can be expected to arrive between 4-6 weeks and the date will be agreed upon during purchase.
Policies:
All sales are final I accept payments through Paypal.
Also, if you are on the trend of personal color analysis (PCA) just imagine your own personal PCA wrap!  I think Sandy should be the first to market a custom slot geared towards PCA.  If you are not familiar with PCA you will be shortly.  All the girls in my BWI group are wanting an expert to come and drape us in fabrics to find out which of  one of the 16 (yes, 16) seasons we are.  Mark my word, PCA wraps are going to be a thing.

Toddler and Squish approved!